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Cycleback’s Guide to Identifying and

 Understanding Early Photographs

© Cycleback, 2000-, all rights reserved


(1) Introduction

 

Photographic process: The way a photographic image is made.  A particular process is distinguished by its use of chemicals, substances and methods.

 

Photographic print: The image created by the photographic process.  A particular print is made by a particular process.   For example, the albumen print was created by the albumen process, while the gelatin-silver print is create by the gelatin-silver process.

 

Photographic style: The combination of the photographic print and the manner it is displayed.  For example, the cabinet card is a style of photograph that is comprised of a 4" X 4-1/2"  photographic print pasted to a cardboard mount measuring about 4-1/2" X 6-1/2."

 

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Photography is the process of creating an image on a sensitized surface by interaction with light or other radiant energy.  The resulting image is called a photographic print.

 

   Over history there have been many different photographic processes. Some processes were used long ago, some recently, some had a long duration, some short, some processes were widely popular, while others were used rarely.  Each process produces a unique image that can be identified.  Aspects such as color, texture and type of aging help us distinguish one type of print from another.  The image must also be examined under a microscope in order to uncover tiny clues.

 

   Photographs come in various styles.  The style is determined by many things, including size, shape, parts and use.  For example, a real photo postcard (a postcard with a photographic image on the back) is a style obviously distinct from a large print that is matted, framed and hung from the wall.  As with processes and prints, each style had its own history, usually dictated by a combination fashion, necessity and technology.

 

This book is meant to provide a concise guide to identifying and understanding the major photographic processes and styles, from the origins of photography through the early years of the 20th century.

  

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Distinguishing Phaotographs

from Non-Photographs

 

Not all realistic looking pictures are photographs, and the collector should be able to tell the difference between photographs and photomechanical reproductions.  The images in this book, for example, are not actual photographs, but reproductions of original photographs.  The pictures in a newspaper or magazine, or on most 20th century baseball cards are ‘photomechanical’ reproductions.  While a photograph is made by the subtle interaction of light or other energy with chemicals, most photomechanical prints involve a printing press pressing ink against paper. 

 

   A handheld microscope will allow one to distinguish a photograph from a non-photograph.  Close examination of a photograph will reveal great subtlety in tones and shades.  The tones can be so subtle that it seems as if you can’t get microscope in focus.  Under the microscope, the photomechanical print will be made up of tiny dots or similar patterns.  Some color photomechanical prints appear to have a honeycomb pattern throughout the whole pattern.  Compare a photograph with a magazine or newspaper picture.  Images produced by Xeroxes and computer printers have a similar dot or honeycomb pattern.

 

   Photomechanical prints have been around the 1880s, and many examples are as collectable as photographs.  However, the collector must realize that photographs and photomechanical prints are two different entities, and that many photograph forgeries are made via photocopiers and such.

 

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The Photographic Subject

 

The subject matter in the image tells us much about the photograph.  It is essential that the historian or collector be knowledgeable about the fashion, poses and other subject matter within the genre they collect.  For example, the collector of American Civil War photographs must be familiar with uniforms, places, equipment and customs.  The collector of baseball photographs should be familiar with the famous players, uniforms and equipment.  This knowledge is important in the determination of a photograph's age, worth and authenticity.  It is also an aid in determining the type of print.  For example, the Calotype, which thrived in the 1850s, should portray people and places from the era.

 

 

 

A BRIEF HISTORY OF EARLY PHOTOGRAPHY

 

As early as the 1500s, artists used a crude camera as a sketching tool.  This ‘camera obscura’ was a giant darkened box with a tiny hole in one side.  The outside scene was reflected upside down on the other wall.  The artist traced this image onto paper, which he later colored.   Some camera obscuras were large enough that the artist could stand inside.

 

   Scientists wanted somehow to make the reflected image permanent.  In the early 1700s the German scientist Johan Schulze discovered that silver salts were darkened when exposed to light.  He used light to create images on silver salts, though he never tried to make the images permanent.  Joseph Nicephore Niepce, a French physicist, created the first permanent image.  Niepce exposed a light sensitive metal plate in a camera obscura, then used a special engraving process to create the image.  One of his photographs from 1826 still exists today.

 

   A partner of Niecpe, Louis Daguerre, developed history's first practical photograph, named the Daguerreotype.  The Daguerreotype was made on a light sensitive silver-coated copper plate.  The Daguerreotype was publicly announced in 1839.  Within a year, the British scientist, William Talbot, announced the invention of the first photograph on paper, called the Calotype or Talbotype.  The Dagerreotype produced the superior image, and proved to be more popular with photographers and the public.

 

   After 1850, photographic techniques and cameras improved allowing more people to become photographers.  Lenses allowed more light through, making shorter exposure times.  New sticky substances were used to create photographs. The most prominent of these substances were collodin and albumen.  After coating a glass plate with collodin, for example, the photographer dipped the plate into light sensitive silver salts.  This allowed the silver salts to stick to the plate.  This process worked only when the collodin was still wet, and was thus named the 'wet-plate' process.  As the whole process had to be performed while the plates were wet, a  photographer was required to carry his dark room with all of his equipment on a wagon when he went to a photo shoot.  The daguerreotype was replaced by a glass plate photograph, called an ambrotype.  The ambrotype was in turn replaced  by an iron plate photograph, called a tintype.  Most paper photographs of the 19th century used the albumen process, and were called albumen prints.

 

   In 1871 Richard Maddox invented the 'dry-plate' process.  Maddox replaced collodin and albumen with gelatin.  Even when the gelatin dried the silver-salts were still sensitive to light.  This meant that the photographer could save the developing process for later and didn't have to take his dark room with him. 

 

   In 1888 George Eastman marketed the first camera that could be used by amateurs.  The Kodak camera contained a roll of film.  When the snapshots were taken, the entire camera was sent to Eastman's company.  The company developed and printed the pictures, and returned the camera containing a new roll of film.  Soon after, camera owners could buy kits and develop their own photographs.

 

AN IMPORTANT TOOL: THE MICROSCOPE

 

To make a correct identification of photographic prints, one must make a close examination of the image surface.  This book not only describes a print’s general, but its microscopic characteristics.  A microscope of least 30X (30 times) power is needed for examination. The normal household magnifying glass is not strong enough.  I prefer to use the hand held  microscope with a battery powered light source.  Such a microscope is affordable, easy to use and can be carried in a coat pocket or backpack.  A microscope of 30X power can be bought for  $20 and under at many local stores or on the internet. 

 

 

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